When people ask "what's my jewelry worth," they usually mean one of three questions without realizing it. Sorting them out is the whole trick to not getting lowballed.
The three numbers — and which one you'll get
Retail replacement value is what an insurance appraisal shows: what it would cost to buy the piece new today. It's the biggest number and the least relevant to a sale — nobody buys secondhand at replacement cost.
Fair market value is what a willing buyer and seller agree on for a used piece. This is closer to reality, but it's still a negotiation, not a fact.
Cash offer is what a buyer actually pays you today. For gold sold to a refiner it can be 70–90% of the raw metal value; for a designer piece sold to the right collector it can be far more. The spread between a bad cash offer and a good one is enormous — which is exactly why a single quote is dangerous.
What actually drives the value
Metal weight and purity. Gold and platinum have a live spot price. Weigh the piece in grams, know the karat (10k, 14k, 18k), and you can estimate the metal "floor" it will never sell below. This is the single most objective input — our instant estimate uses metal, weight, and item type to anchor a number in seconds.
Stones. Diamonds and colored gemstones are valued on the classic factors — cut, color, clarity, carat — and a GIA or reputable lab report is worth real money because it removes the buyer's guesswork. No paperwork means the buyer prices in the risk, and you eat it.
Brand and design. A stamped, documented piece from a recognized maker can sell for multiples of its melt value. An unbranded piece of identical metal and stones sells much closer to melt. Provenance is value.
Condition and completeness. Original box, papers, and receipts push offers up. Damage, sizing changes, and replaced parts push them down.
How to sell without getting lowballed
The mistake is walking into one shop and taking their word. A single buyer has every incentive to quote low, and no incentive not to. Instead:
Establish the metal floor first so you know the absolute minimum. Get the paperwork you have in order — lab reports, receipts, boxes. And make buyers compete. The same piece shown to several vetted buyers reliably draws a higher number than the first counter you'd have accepted. That's the entire reason DEALR exists: it runs the comparison for you and hands back a ranked set of real offers instead of one take-it-or-leave-it price.
Get a fast estimate on your piece
Tell us the item, metal, and weight for a firm instant number — then let an agent work buyers to beat it. Free, no obligation.
The short version
Retail value flatters you, appraisal value is for insurance, and the cash offer is the one that pays. Know your metal floor, keep your paperwork, and never accept a first quote in isolation.
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